Developing a collection

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Describes the steps involved in the first phase of the project and summarizes the plan for the next two phases. Please share your general feedback. You can start or join in a discussion here. Visit emeraldpublishing. Please note you might not have access to this content. As a used to make new shapes and ideas How many second lines to designer you should absorb as in three-dimensional form. Samples the main range do you have? This is a I find too many people busy listening who use their more advanced skills collection designed for the Japanese to their MP3 players and not to develop the sample to get the taste and customer without losing appreciating what is going on around best shape.

I am then able to see it the Vivienne Westwood image and Collections and their influences them; for me, the more you see and made properly and alter it to my feeling. It also caters for the read the more ideas you gain. Japanese body and sizes are created especially for them.

It is intended to be a more commercial range than the mainline collection. It is very good for a each line, one in Italy and one in designer to listen to the other team Japan. Communication of the members from all departments so designs is achieved by drawing on that more advanced designs and spec sheets and writing descriptions collections can be developed.

Our and measurements so everything is design director Andreas Kronthaler clear for them. Do you do in-house reviews of the collections? There are constant in-house reviews of the collections as they continue to be developed. There are also talks with buyers and the press office to get feedback so that the customers are satisfied and new customers targeted for the future.

How do you present your collections to your clients? I present collections to clients by doing a short presentation with the use of mood boards and garment samples. I talk about price points, fabric treatments, styles and the fabric itself; for example, the weight and quality and the composition of the fabrics. How do you work with stylists, marketing and PR for selling the collection? There is good feedback on sales, which allows the best sellers and worst designs to be seen.

This enables good decisions to be made on what to repeat and what not to do next season. How did you source your fabrics? It you develop your collections? We I had a break from my business, constant Six Eight Seven Six themes were always trying to evolve new designed for A Life in NY and had drawn from cultural and artistic styles and even if we found a fabric a lifestyle change, bought a bike and influences. This time the not be a slave to arbitrary trends and re-run a style years later. In the ranges, rather than moderate targets. This guiding principle but now we have become more collection was based on geodesic drives us to develop an evolving relaxed and flexible in how we domes with technical fabrics.

It is a good discipline Influences were also small-scale confines of menswear by blending to know your manufacturers and architecture in Japan with transient the latest fabric and manufacturing fabric mills to start with. Taking How many garments did you make? I work with nature, we try and evolve an form of 20—25 pieces. We would find a stylist, Adam Howe, and have a aesthetic that resonates with our fabrics that would fit in two to three photographer, Norbert.

In factories in Portugal and Scotland. These were produced over with vintage sportswear. We were three to four months. We started by We use five or six UK companies and finding garments, mainly workwear one in Portugal for our manufacturing. We simplified the garments and took them into modern fabrication. How do you sell and promote We plan to collaborate with old- your ranges? We have a personal relationship manufacturer to produce a fusion. We ranges for the next styles. The process is still vertical from fabric, trim, pattern to garment. We also collaborate with Folk clothing for 2 technical styles, usually — pieces across two styles.

Collections and their influences Sophie Hulme, fashion designer, interview How do you start your How do you compile a Do you have any sponsors or collections? I find stuff, old things I have I have a feeling about colour and I have a PR called Cube but collected and objects that I make usually have a base of neutrals with have no sponsors at present. I then design individual with aubergine. Sampling is limited other people to produce special lines pieces rather than a whole look. I am so I will swatch other colourways in future. I might possibly work in not trend-led but I build a wardrobe especially for buyers.

Japan with artists and go back to of key pieces that are designed to illustrating, which I only do for last. Each season I develop a new How and where do you editorial at the moment. I buy between 50 and and b Store in London bought my I design in two season brackets: metres and commission colours. I collection. Store in London. Often they buy my I design my own prints and have pieces themselves, which is how my them printed in repeat; and I have graduate collection was bought by fabric sequinned in India. How do you develop your How many are in your team?

I have a do you produce? I submitted A5 sketchbooks, It varies from season to season. It is an organic process and we How many illustrations do you collaborate through dialogue. There produce per season? Then Wedgwood approached me to design their th anniversary china as they liked my style. They gave me carte blanche to work how I wanted. I felt it an honour to be asked by a heritage brand such as Wedgwood.

Describe your style of illustration Cute with darkness behind: cutouts, naive, mainly in black and white. I choose to work with lack of precision and a return to the hand-drawn. I use paper stolen from the photocopier, pads of coloured paper and Berol fine liners a red one for thick lines and turquoise for fine lines. I work in sketchbooks on the go and draw something every day. I used to get in trouble at school, but now I am 1 a professional doodler! At each level it is important to understand who the target customer is and how the collections will be presented.

Established houses such as Chanel, Givenchy, Gaultier, Dior and Lacroix are members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture and show their couture collections in Paris over three days in January and July.

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Currently there are only 12 full members compared with over in Only garments that are hand made in France, by members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture, can be labelled as haute couture. But the Chambre may also invite guest designers, such as Martin Margiela, Valentino and Giorgio Armani, to show alongside other members in Paris.

Chambre syndicale de la haute couture This was the initiative of the first known English couturier Charles Frederick Worth. Couture houses that are members of Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must meet and maintain strict criteria, including specialist aspects of the manufacture process and the location.

All processes are controlled within the atelier or studio which may sometimes just be the artisans working in their own homes. Aristocratic women would a specialist area. The flou is an area specifications. The atelier is the commission makers to produce specialising in dresses and draped laboratory for developing and personal gowns and accessories garments.

The tailleur focuses on maintaining new fabrics, beading, for social and court occasions. Couture houses are Lesage, which specialises in flowers, include their names on labels sewn traditionally separated by skills into braids and feathers. Other houses into the garments. However, with in Paris, such as Dior, also use this more money to be made in daywear atelier Dior no longer owns its own than evening wear, the boundaries specialist ateliers.

For example, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel commissions the dressmakers to work on unstructured jackets, which brings a lightness to the tailoring. Clients buy close to the that the garments are personally collections in much the same way season, seeing a show in January fitted to their measurements and as ready-to-wear.

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John Galliano, for for that spring unlike ready-to-wear, body proportions. A series of fittings example, starts his haute couture which shows for the following will take place, using calico toiles. This ensures exclusivity The toile records the exact cut, fit selecting fabrics.

Each season, for the client, who values the privacy and finish and will also detail showing the couture collection allows and service only available at this level information for linings, interfacing potential clients the opportunity to of the market. Then, after seeing the and embellishments. Having fashion market. The future of haute couture Special occasions Due to the extremely high costs Haute couture is aimed associated with the production exclusively at women, and purchase of couture clothing with many of the clothes and the growth in popularity of designed for events such as ready-to-wear, there are fewer the Oscars ceremony in customers able or willing to buy Los Angeles or the Cannes couture.

Many couture houses Film Festival in France. In addition, changes in workrooms to ensure that society mean that many social the client has fittings right formalities have disappeared and so up to the event. It is estimated that there are approximately women across the world who can afford to buy haute couture. As such, many designers and fashion houses will loan evening gowns to young celebrities to freshen the image of couture.

Over the last 20 years a number of designers have expanded into this level of the market, including Versace, only to retreat when the cost and competition have proven to be unworkable or unnecessary to develop the core business. Couture is establishment and classic, whereas ready-to-wear is young and subject to trends and change. A ready-to-wear collection is created for a wider customer base and will be produced in standardised sizes. Ready-to-wear can span from established design houses, who also produce couture, to international and smaller designers setting up independent labels.

The origins of ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear in the USA Couture houses first began to Many aspects of design and This can be traced back produce cheaper lines for their products were being reconsidered to the beginning of the in-house boutiques in the s. In the s Yves Saint introduction of the sewing boutiques to cater for a changing Laurent launched Rive Gauche — machine. Immigrants from world by offering off-the-peg ready-to-wear for women and men.

The Rive Gauche collections skills settled in New York These collections were based on popularised his avant-garde and set up workshops in their couture lines at an affordable approach to style, luxury and the crowded tenements to price. Up until , Italian and contemporary fashion consumer. Saint Laurent created an enticing began to visit the Paris Early forms of licensing were image of the modern consumer in shows and buy patterns to established by couturiers such as touch with contemporary cultures copy for the American Christian Dior, who sold patterns and — a global traveller who understood market using cut, make and muslin toiles to the USA to be copied cultural and creative diversity and the trim outfits in New York.

By and sold in department stores. It could be argued Collections designed for different markets offering affordable, diffusion that this look and many others collections inspired by their couture from Saint Laurent provided the styles. Designers and retailers have created Regardless of market niche, each brands to define a lifestyle or design branded collection is created and language that is communicated to produced in the same way. The consumers. As with other industries brand is clearly identified as targeting this creates a demand based on specific customers or occasions, want rather than need.

Pricing, extent, aware of what is fashionable. Over the past 20 years, the designer ready-to-wear market has expanded International designers provide the to include an enormous range of main content for the ready-to-wear labels, diffusion lines, accessories shows during Fashion Week in the and other branded products. In addition expand into a range of fashion and to the published schedules for these non-fashion areas. The fashion industry is the brand, with the result that the international in consumer awareness, Cardin name became devalued and demand, production and promotion, unfashionable.

Gucci suffered the with brands such as Louis Vuitton, same fate, coming to represent bad Gucci, Prada and Dior being taste. Gucci re-evaluated their recognised, demanded and heritage and prior status by available across the world. Following his first ready-to- wear collections in the mids Ford successfully repositioned Gucci as a global leader. When Yves Saint Laurent was sold to the Gucci group in , Ford applied the same approach to reinvigorate the YSL brand — again with acclaim; he repositioned YSL at the forefront of modern ready-to-wear fashion.

This term is used to denote a Collections by contemporary Catwalking. The ultimate goal for show twice a year either as part small designer labels is to sell of the main ready-to-wear fashion collections that they can produce, Collections designed for different markets week schedule or alongside these deliver and continue to supply. Regardless of Some designers are showmen schedule details, these shows are who launch collections to attract often extremely popular, reflecting major investors.

Alexander McQueen their exclusivity and limited did this and gained his first couture distribution. Many of the collections position at Givenchy. Gareth Pugh, shown by less-established designers whose graduate collection was are favoured by the press due to the theatrical and extreme, now significance of the show, either in produces exquisite collections terms of design or general direction backed by an Italian company, or sometimes simply because of the which enables him to show outrageous clothes.

Most retailers will continue to offer core ranges that evolve from season to season, reflecting a more conservative customer or clothing area. Nightwear, underwear and sweatshirt separates are also typical core lines — these are much less influenced by high-fashion trends or directions. New ranges are displayed in store as soon as delivery is received.

The supplier Marks and Spencer Only a few chain stores have in- UK company Marks and in fashion until the Autograph house design teams. As a result, the s. Collections designed for different markets as a design consultant. In the Autograph label. Chalayan and Matthew Eastern Europe.

The suppliers will then provide samples and have weekly meetings with the buyers and merchandisers. Designers who work for suppliers have the opportunity to shop the world for sample garments. With the rapid and popular magazine from However, most development of inexpensive, fast of the mills and factories have now fashion, many consumers are now closed down due to increasing costs concerned about the ethics and and competition from mass sustainability of this market level.

One as organic, fairtrade or socially exception is Spanish retailer Zara, responsible. This is a complex which is a vertical producer. But as an increasing and garments, thereby allowing for number of environmental and complete flexibility in production and social factors are demanding styles. With its own retail outlets, that we reconsider how and why Zara is able to control every aspect we consume fashion, along with of the design, production and retail a growing responsibility within chain, whilst keeping costs in control the choices we make, this will and stock change responsive to undoubtedly change future fashion direction and sales.

Stock is considerations for fashion therefore planned to offer ongoing designers and consumers. Collections designed for different markets Developing mass-market collections For corporate branded companies Once the garments have been with in-house design teams, the shown there will be further design process is similar to that in adjustments to the collection by high-end fashion.

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The design team the merchandiser, who collaborates will start developing a new collection with the designer to finalise what to whilst still working on the previous buy and in what quantities for their one. Elements are often carried retail stores. The different ranges are across, whether they are successful displayed on large, portable grids, pieces from a previous collection or each representing drops or deliveries core pieces that sell every season.

Rigging can from their sourcing trips around the represent different colour stories world. These boards form an for different labels within the brand. The editing process Information pinned on the mood should involve distilling and boards include colour swatches, refining looks into tight ranges, sketches, photographs, tear sheets, which represent the spirit of the text, illustrations, fabric samples and overall collection.

Once sketches have been produced and edited, sample garments are made: first in an inferior cloth, such as cotton calico or muslin, and then in the sample cloth. Over the next few weeks silhouettes will be developed; this is an ongoing process where many pieces are discarded in favour of garments that reflect the mood of the season. And so begins the editing process, where approximately 40 per cent of the original sample garments will be shown to the client or on the Collections designed for different markets catwalk. As many as pieces will be made, which represent around 50 looks or exits on to the catwalk or runway.

They usually contain specifications, measurements, fabric, trim and lining information: basically everything needed to produce a garment in the factory. Some accessories. Isaac Mizrahi, Todd as part of their main merchandise. Japanese company fabrics, production and visual at retail. Many retailers have identified Uniqlo has also followed this trend promotion.

This arrangement can the value and prestige of promoting a by employing Jil Sander as its be mutually beneficial and profitable guest or celebrity designer to enliven design consultant. In the US, be easily put together in whole outfits Target has pioneered this strategy, or looks. Taking business development.

Although not trained or experienced 2 The collaboration between as a designer, Moss has become a Kate Moss and Topshop has living fashion icon and is associated been incredibly successful. This company and many others became embedded as part of the American way of life; soon after, this form of shopping arrived in Europe and the UK. The clothing ranges presented in these catalogues were extravagantly illustrated or photographed, often in exotic or aspirational locations and settings.

But whilst the clothing ranges were seasonal, they were made in large numbers and stock size and the quality was often average. Garments were designed to be only seen from the front, so the silhouette and backs of garments were basic and dull. This form of fashion production and retail became known as dowdy or downmarket until entrepreneur George Davies launched the Next Directory in The directory transformed the notion of home shopping.


Customers had to pay to receive a copy of the catalogue, which was glossy and featured real fabric swatches alongside photographs and a measuring tape. This interactive experience, coupled with fashion photography by Bruce Weber, featuring models from design magazine campaigns, transformed the idea of home shopping into something cool, informed and exciting. The ranges were clearly influenced by fashion trend and current influential designers. Some items might have been fairly basic, but the overall image and packaging created the desired halo effect for the high-street fashion consumer.

For ten years the visual and merchandise format established by Next was influential in endless retail spaces and stores across the UK. The company has since Net-a-porter was launched in number of ranges across each evolved into a successful fashion- and has revolutionised the way traditional season. Ranges are centred organisation that strives women shop. It is successful in its designed and produced in a to produce the latest fashion ability to buy quickly from designers number of countries and stock is looks at competitive prices for and showcase merchandise even carefully planned on prior sales and men and women.

Developing a collections management framework

Is your customer getting younger? We have an working wardrobe. The Is it less about evening wear and there and get it. The handwriting Some might be corporate entertaining they have had an idea somewhere, and the way we work is fairly for someone exceedingly glamorous.

Professional women need to make a process in itself, and I think that is confident, strong presentation of part of the whole discussion in Would you ever show as part themselves and clothing is of course arriving at something you are both of Couture Week in Paris? We have a happy with. There is always a salon show professional women who are very Madame de Pompadour style. What they want is privacy and picture and said she would like for charities, press and licensees. Do you also work with other the tailoring and the dressmaking? Freddie Fox get done. We now work show will be ordered?

One case in point this season is a style that we have not sold much of but we have sold a lot of this cloth in other styles. It can vary vastly from four weeks to a year. If you have got someone who does not live in England and they are only available for fittings when they are here, maybe twice a year, then it will take longer. Quite a number of clients come in from abroad, and what happens after a period of time is that every time they are in England there is something to pick up, something to fit or something to discuss. Do you keep a stock of fabrics?

We are only talking about some hundreds, not thousands, of units. In a season we can produce up to different styles including different colourways and special designs from the original collection. These are normally from merchants who give us short lengths of cloth — usually Parisian, Swiss Italian and Spanish. Is that difficult for clients who do not want to be dressed the same as somebody else?

Yes, there are one or two occasions, such as Ascot, where I have to be slightly careful. A genuine couture client does not regard the design as necessarily exclusive, but more about having clothes made for their private wardrobe. Collections designed for different markets Jens Laugesen, fashion designer, interview What happened after you How many trilogies have How do you develop your graduated from the MA?

Lulu Kennedy chose me as one of I have done 12 so far, starting I look at the architecture of the three graduates to show at Fashion with Ground Zero from my graduate garments and draw line-ups of East — part of London Fashion Week. I showed a look collection based deconstruction and reconstruction. I research garments by hanging them on the 16 looks from my graduate Then Outsize, which was about on a white wall, then I draw directly collection, which was called Ground analysing the design process; then on to the toiles I have made as Zero. I also designed ranges for Future Now to Modernity; and lastly replicas of the vintage garments.

I Topshop under New Generation. Here I went back to my sketch only for the pattern cutters Danish roots and studied the work of and give them technical details. How do you start your a Danish artist mixed with glam rock Sensibility in cut and proportion are collections? I am which are three collections in do you design a year? In the early and also to see what will be s dress, maybe; reconstruction s designers were conceptual; coming out in the main range.

About from the past in a modern context. I learnt to do this at before the show, with 20 per cent How many cutters do you Central Saint Martins where the being confirmed from the catwalk employ in your studio? I have two to three cutters working to continually break down the with me every season and then I process to understand and analyse, How do you source your fabrics? I use fabrics from Italy How do you edit your collections? I look at How do you research fabric. I also buy from small ateliers the silhouette of that season and for your collections?

I have to be objective mostly garments. I go to flea Whaleys, Pongees and Henry and then I work with my stylist to edit markets and buy vintage rather Bertrand. I commissioned a special the final collection. I buy traditional wools for tailoring, then use them in a modern way. I also buy yarn from Loro Piana in Italy for my Collections designed for different markets knitwear ranges. Collections designed for different markets Ohne Titel, fashion label, interview How do you start your collections?

We are designing for intelligent, confident working women who appreciate suitings. We know ourselves what we want to wear and this influences our collection. We also start collecting things that interest us. How many collections do you design? We are looking at resort cruise in the future as a collection of easy pieces between the two main collections. How do you source fabrics and do you compile a colour palette?

Reps from yarn mills will also visit us. We have contacts from our previous jobs as designers and are confident in sourcing and putting together colour for the collections.

Through discussion and research we will come up with colour chips. We also use the archive at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, a library and archive of vintage garments. How do you develop your shapes and silhouettes? We drape fabric on the form mannequin and use a fit model in the studio. We work directly on toiles and photograph them. Where do you show your collections? Collections designed for different markets In a gallery in the West Village on Who buys your collection? We subscribe to Fashion Madonna has bought our clothes, Calendar, who set up dates and give but we really sell to real women: us a good position on schedule gallery owners, politicians and during New York Fashion Week.

Where do you sell your clothes? Do you consider sustainability? We make in Italy and 90 per yet. Selfridges will buy 11 of one cent of our fabrics are from Italy. We style and for exclusives, 15—20 also source prints in China but know styles. Because of selling a small the factories as quality is important.

How and where do you What do you define as a On a big season such as fall or source fabrics? Some of the very and biker jackets. There is also a from textile companies, but we also press only. We styles and single kimbled units. How many collections also have an amazing sample do you design? We also send specs and We have two main pattern cutters development to Hong Kong. I work with one who palette and if so, how? Where and how do you create specialises in tailoring and outerwear Generally our creative director will your first samples and how many and there is another pattern cutter compile the colour palette but we all are made for each collection?

It can often For my styles, as I do tailoring and pieces. Some of the soft patterns; they occasionally help out vintage garments or a photo. This with development too. I give my gives us the opportunity to continue pattern cutter a sketch and developing the collection right up sometimes an image or a garment until the line opens. Most of the along with it to help explain exactly development of the first samples is what I want.

I will discuss it with him done in Hong Kong. Then he makes a toile or muslin for me to look at and fit. This is when we present the collection to the president, executive vice president, merchandising and sales teams. We have these meetings at the beginning of the season when we present the first protos and then with the final protos for line adoption before market opens. How do you present the collections to your clients?

We have a big showroom where the collection is hung in deliveries along with some looks and accessories, and when the big clients come in we do small presentations with models to show the key looks. At this stage though, the sales team generally takes over. This is where we hand over the collection to them and they are responsible, along with the president and executive vice president, for the selling and marketing. Collections designed for different markets James Spreckley, menswear director at Reiss, interview How do start your collections? Emotion-led discussions with the team lead to visual brainstorming sessions.

We visit galleries internationally and use sketchbooks. We need to understand the current climate and create a visual mood and create concept boards for colour, fabric and trim. Four per season for garments in group drops and four per season for accessories. Ten in the menswear team covering knit, woven and leather. There are senior designers, junior designers, assistants, product developers and an office manager.

Menswear is separate from womenswear but we work on the same floor in a different studio. Do you compile a colour palette and if so, how? From the concept mood boards there is a lab dip process using vintage fabrics from garments or images. We only look at trend predictions as confirmation. We will always have a capsule colour collection, which is the core colour palette, and introduce new tones of these.

Every season there is exclusive colour development in- house and the lab dips then go out Collections designed for different markets to the factories for sampling. We can have between 45 and 55 variations in tones within colours. We go all over the world to source communicate your designs By presenting to the store managers. They work from sketches and identity is maintained.

It is important fairs in London for denim shirting tear sheets and there is a verbal that the outfits are shown how they and suitings. The were designed from the outset. We also have fittings two days a managers who need stories. We buy vintage textiles and prints for week on a fit model. Do you do in-house reviews How do you develop your shapes of the collections? We make our first prototypes in- house and through the factories. What do you define as a collection or a range? A range is driven by the merchandise but a collection is presented as a creative look.

There are ranges within collections, which are updated following sales information and fed back into the collections.

Developing a Patient Collection Strategy for a Growing Health System

How many looks on average are there in each collection? Seasons do vary, so the size of the collections will vary. How many are there in your How many stores do you We start with inspiration from design team? Print globally, so we represent the and shopping in major cities designers re-colour vintage prints mass market, each store worldwide.

We have got to get into it and are creative and imaginative. The process should There is a CAD team and a merchandise. We also have an online be pure and inspirational. We then pre-production team and a mainly business for the same merchandise. We have five levels of the total making colour chips from our in- collection — Level 1 for large stores house colour library and from bits How do you develop your and Level 5 for smaller stores where of vintage garments or fabric to silhouettes?

When sketching and creating images group. We use house models for we launch a pre-summer range for from rigging vintage garments. We look at trends front of store, the second delivery in Europe but as the company is must flow from it to give a strong How many collections do you bi-coastal we have to be aware of fashion message.

Banana Republic Quarterly, that is, four hits a year — covers the east and west coasts spring, summer, fall and winter, with of America. The GAP headquarters overlapping elements including are in San Francisco, where the previews of menswear and merchants and buyers are based, womenswear.

The main collections and the designers are based in New we design by store layout: front, York. We always filter the brand middle and back. The middle is city and can be pushed more. Three per styled, work-appropriate suiting and cent of the collection is high risk and basic outfitting including the core only delivered to 30 stores. The back of the store is weekend chic, calypso Where do you create your samples? These are brighter and more world.

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We produce specifications for specialised areas of clothing and new shapes in tech packs. How important is sustainability and being eco-friendly? It is not a conscious decision, All design is done in-house but we but one step at a time. Our do collaborate closely with our manufacturers are using fewer vendors manufacturers in the chemicals, which has evolved over execution of the design.

Franchise time. It is a daily routine for them, goods include licensing of perfumes, not a gimmick. Denim washes are personal care, sunglasses and ecological through recycling water jewellery. It is not concerned with wastes from agriculture, larger industries or the mining industries which normally handle their own wastes. Create your own review. This is an old version of our website and it is no longer updated. For more updated information, please check our new website. Filter by year All years